Manufacture of shoes



May 14, 1940. I 2.200.385

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Aug. 4, 193B 2 Sheets-Shet 1 May 14, 1940.

F. A. EICH 4 MANUFACTURE OF SHOES I Filed Aug. 4, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2unman-9751111111111 Nut/v70? f 54044; 4 jwew Patented May 14, 1940PATENT OFFICE mnurac'ronn or SHOES Frank A. Eich, Melrose, Mass,assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N.J., a corporation of New Jersey Application August 4, 1938, Serial No.223,055

' 24 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) My invention relates to the making of shoes,it being especially concerned with the attachment to an upper-portion ofa bottom-portion, as a heel or a preassembled outsole-and heel-unit. Inapplication filed in the United States Patent Oflice in my name onNovember 18, 1938, Serial No. 241,211 is described and claimed anapparatus by which certain of the steps of the herein disclosed methodmay be performed.

The invention has as an object the creation of such an attachment thatthe bottom-portion will be located accurately with respect to theupperportion; which may be accomplished on or off the last; in which theconnection between portions is secure and is formed without danger ofinjury to the shoe-parts; with the joint or crease between the upper;and bottom-portions close; and with the interior of the shoe at theheel-seat permanently retaining its initial transverse contour and beingrelatively free from projections produced by the attaching fastenings.

'A feature of the invention by which the above end is attained may befound in a'method of shoemaking which consists in driving a series offastenings from the outside into the margin of and interlocking saidfastenings with the assembledparts of the heel-seat-end of a shoe,

forming, as by drilling in a shoe-bottom-portion, a series of passagesso located that they will register with the fastenings when thebottom-portion is in assembling relation to the shoe-upperportion andforcing together the two portions,

with the fastenings in the passages. To facilitate ing is clinched in apredetermined direction, this,

as herein disclosed, being the end which passes through the insole of ashoe-upper. The fastening which is best employed consists of acollarnail, one of the oppositely extending shanks of which is dividedor otherwise formed with two prongs. The nails may be inserted in aseries about the margin of the heel-seat of the shoe, with the prongsclinched oppositely, one of these overturned portions of one or morefasteningsextended toward the nearest point in the periphery of theheel-seat. Because of the exact simultaneouscontrol over the points ofinsertion of the fastenings, they may be positioned as closely aspracticable to the crease, and by the extension of the outer prongdirectly toward said crease, this may be made close and so retained. Theshank of each nail opposite the divided portion is of such a greaterdiameter than the passage by which it is to be received after theseparation of the shoe from the mold that it will be held fast in theshoe-bottom-portion, without producing injury during insertion, thedifference in diameter being capable ofsuch variation as is madedesirable by the nature of the material. The holding capacity of thefastenings in the work may be increased by lateral projections from thepassage-entering shank. With both the opposite fastening-portions thusfirmly set in the work, any form which has been imparted to theheel-seat will be retainedin the wear of the shoe. If it is desired toattach to a shoe, instead of such a bottom-portion as a heel, apreassembled unit made up of an outsole and a heel, the procedure may begenerally as has been outlined, except that the fastenings are fixed inthe heel-seat portion of the insole, and the receiving passages areformed through the outsole of the unit into the heel. The unit is notonly thus attached at the heel-end, but the fore-part is also locatedupon the shoe by the attaching means. My improved method of attachmentlends itself to use with heels of plastic material, in whichfastening-receiving passages are molded. A ratio of fastening-andpassage-diameters may be chosen which will give the maximum retention,with the minimum liability to rupture the plastic. Further, if thefastenings have the lateral projections previously noted which enter theplastic wall, the holding power will be made greater, withoutsubstantially adding to the rupturing strain, and the efficiency ofretention may be increased still more by applying a solvent for theplastic to one of the engaging surfaces. This will soften the materialand cause it to better accommodate itself to the registering surface ofthe fastening.

Another feature of the invention lies in a shoewhich maybe made by theperformance of my improved method. This shoe has an upper with itsinsole and a bottom-portion, as a heel, which may be of Wood, moldedplastic or other material, or a compound bottom-unit including anoutsole and a heel, such bottom-portion preferably being secured to theupper by collar-nails having oppositely projecting shanks, one of theshanks being divided and clinched oppositely uponthe inner face of theinsole, and the other shank lying within the bottom-portion.' With thecompound bottom-unit, the last-mentioned shank passes through theoutsole and in any case may have lateral projections. The outer clinchedprongof the divided shank extends toward the nearest point in theperiphery of the heel-seat. The advantages of such a shoe-constructionhave already been outlined in connection with the method by which saidconstruction is produced.

In the accompanying drawings,

Fig. 1 illustrates in broken side elevation the step of molding theheel-seat of a shoe and positioning fastenings for insertion therein;

Fig. 2 shows similarly the setting of the fastenings in the work;

In Fig. 3 appears in plan the shoe-bottom with the fastenings set in it;

Fig 4 illustrates the step of drilling a heel;

Fig. 5 in a like manner shows the forcing together of the shoe with itsfastenings and the heel;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged side elevation of one of the fastenings;

Fig. '7, a broken side elevation of the rear portion of a shoe with itsattached heel;

Fig. 8, a partial, separated, perspective view of an upper-portion and acompound bottomportion of a shoe which are to be secured together inaccordance with this invention;

Fig. 9, a longitudinal section through the heelend of the parts of Fig.8 assembled, and

Fig. 10 shows similarly to Fig. 8 a shoe-upper arranged for theattachment of a molded plastic heel.

In Figs. 1 to 5 of the drawings are illustrated the more essential stepsinvolved in practicing my improved method for securing ashoe-bottomportion, in the form of a heel H, to a shoe-upperportionincluding an upper U lasted over an insole I and having an attachedoutsole S. The fastening preferably employed is a nail N, which appearsin Fig. 6. This nail is of the collar-type, having a flange orenlargement II) from which project opposite shanks I2 and I4. The shankI2 is divided along its axis to a point near the collar, thisbifurcation producing two slightly spaced prongs I6, I6. The adjacentfaces of the outer ends of the prongs at I8 diverge outwardly, so whenthe ends contact with such a surface as the clinching plate of a last,the prongs will be deflected outwardly and upset. The extremity of eachprong may be somewhat rounded, as appears at in Fig. l. The otherfastening-shank I4 is shown as longer than its companion and has aconical tip 22 which will facilitate its entrance into an opening. Itmay also have from its cylindrical surface projections 23 swaged out ofthe shank. I

First, for effecting the attachment, the upperportion U of a shoe isjacked, either upon a post 24, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, with acontained last L, or with the last pulled and the insole restingdirectly upon a jack-top. In either case, the shoe is held upon the jackin a definite lateral and angular position by some such means as a band26 embracing its counter-portion. Above the jack a mold 28 is supported,this having at its under side a concave surface 30 vertically alinedwith the jack and of such a transverse contour that when the heel-seatof a shoe and the mold are pressed together, as a result of relativemovement between the jack and mold, the heel-seat-material will becompressed and formed to generally correspond to the cup of the heel H.It is, however, somewhat less convex. so that when the heel is attachedto the shoe, firm, unbroken contact of the edge of the cup with theupper-material will be assured. Under some conditions, the gaging oftheupper-portion may be efi'ected by engagement of. the breastshoulders ofthe outsole S with a properly located wall at the front of the mold,instead of by the use of a counter-band. Extending vertically throughthe mold from within the depression 30 are openings shown as live innumber, ar-

ranged in accordance with a chosen inserting design, these including arear opening 32, opposite side openings 34, 34 and oppositebreastopenings 36, 36. They are formed about the portion of the moldcorresponding to the margin of the heel-seat which it is to engage andare as close to the periphery as is permitted by the shape of the heel Hto be attached and the length of the shanks I4 of the nails N. Above themold, a set of five fastening-drivers 38 are arranged to reciprocate. Inthe lower end of each driver is an axial bore 40, in which the shank I4of a nail will fit closely, with the collar I0 against the driver-end. Aspring 42, acting in each bore, bears against the nail therein, and willnot only retain this from downward displacement but will also hold it ina predetermined angular position about its axis. With the shoe jackedand under molding pressure, the shanks I4 of five nails N are introducedinto the bores 40 and positioned as appears in Fig. 1 and as made moreclear by Fig. 3, which shows the relation of the nails after they havebeen set in the work. The prongs I6 of the nail contained in the opening32 will lie generally along the longitudinal axis of the shoe. Those ofthe nails in the openings 34, 34 are substantially at right-anglesthereto, while the nails in the openings 36, 36 lie at the same generalangle as the rear nail but at the opposite sides of the longitudinalaxis. With the nails thus located, the drivers descend into themold-openings. The curved ends 20 of the fastenings penetrate the tab ofthe outsole S and the insole I, readily displacing such obstacles aslasting tacks which they may encounter. The diverging fasteningsurfacesI3 start the separation of the prongs in this movement through theheel-seat-material, and this is completed by engagement of the surfaceswith the last-plate 44. or, when the .shoe is off the last, with thejack-top. At the end of the driver-stroke, the prongs are oppositelyclinchedupon the inner surface of the insole I in the manner illustratedin Figs. 2, 3 and 7. In each case, the outer prong extends towardsubstantially the nearest point in the periphery of the heel-seat, atwhich it is desired to exert a retaining effect between the shoe-upperand the edge of the heel about the cup. Thus, the clinched outer prongsof the nails in the passages 32 and 34, projecting at substantiallyrightangles from their shanks, reach toward that portion of theheel-seat at which is to be the crease between the upper and theheel-cup. The outer prongs of the nails in the passages 36 approach thejoint between the outsole and that forward extension of the heel whichis common in women's work and where the strains caused by walking arepeculiarly liable to lead to the separation and tearing of thebreast-flap of the heel. With the shanks I2 of the nails set in thismanner, the heel-seat-material is fi.mly clamped between the collars I0resting against the outsole and the prongs IS, IS extended over theinsole in the manner just described. The jack or mold and 2,200,386 vthe drivers may now be restored to their normal positions.

At 50 in Fig. 4 is shown a support for the heel H, this beingprovidedwith a tread-rest 52,a backfork 54 and a breast-gage 56. By thismeans,

' the heel is held in a predetermined relation to a gang of five drills58. With the drills inrotation and lowered to bore through the surfaceof the heel-cup into the body of the heel, theywill 5), which mayinclude a tread-abutment 62 and. a rear abutment 64. The passages in theheel H are applied to the nail-shanks l4 projecting from the heel-seat.The jack and hold-down .are thereupon moved relatively, so the shoe andThe extent of this heel will be forced together. movement is such tosomewhat sink the edge of the heel-cup in the lasted-over edge of theupper U. The thus-assembled upperand lower-portions are illustrated inFig. '7. The relatively large area of contact of the clinched prongs I 6with the insole will insure the fastenings from pulling through theheel-seat-material, and the divided prongs, when clinched oppositely,project but little, if at all, from the inner face of the insole. Thecompression of the heel-material by the shanks 14 gives more securefrictional retention than does the driving of nails into a solid heel.This follows because of the freedom from deformation produced by tearingapart of the heel-substance. Since a definite and substantiallyunvarying relation is established between the location of the nails inthe heel-seat and that of the passages in the heel during the drivingand forming operations, the problem of correctly positioning the heelfor attachment is disposed of without the necessity for exercisingspecial care during theassembling operation. Nothing being left tochance as to the relation between the shoe-parts during the assembling,and the nails following preformed'paths, said nails may be inserted asclose to the crease as the form of the heel will allow, and theheelengaging shanks l4 may be made comparatively long without danger ofpenetrating the heel-wall. As the nails thus pass straight through theheel-seat into the heel instead of being toed in or inclined, theirpoints of entrance into the heel are closer to the crease by about asize of nailing design, and because of the extension of the upset prongsl6 toward the periphery of the heel-seat, the eifective holding forcesexerted by the nails are applied farther toward the crease by at leasttwo more sizes. A close joint is therefore held without gaping. Itshould particularly be observed that with the insole I and otherheelseat-material clamped fast between the nail-collars l0 and theclinched prongs l6, and the opposite shanks l4 fixed immovably in theheel, the

inner'surface of the insole will be held efiectively againstdeformation. Therefore, w h a t e v e r transverse contour has beenimparted by the last will largely be retained in the wearing of theshoe. The true form will thus be maintained,

even though the heel-seat-material be spaced from the surface of theheel-cup, as indicated in Fig. 7.

Figs. 8 and 9 show the attachment to a shoeupper-portion, made up of anupper U lasted over an insole I, of a compound bottom-unit in whicha'heel H has been assembled with an outsole S, as bycementing. Theoperations may be generally as already described, except that the nailsN clamp only the insole between their collars I 0 and their clinchedprongs I6, l6, and the passages 60 which receive the shanks l4 passthrough the tab of the outsole into the heel. In addition to theadvantages which have been developed before for this method ofattachment, it

will be seen that with the plurality of nails held in the upper-portionof a shoe, and the nailreceiving passages formed in the outsole andheel, said fastenings and passages being arranged to register when theupperand bottom-portions are in assembling relation, there is a furthergain.

The outsole is definitely positioned, with the heel,

upon the upper-portion, both longitudinally and laterally thereof. r

My invention is also .of peculiar utility in connection with theattachment of a heelsuch as .appears at H in Fig. 10. This heel ismolded of plastic material, .for example a nitrocellulose compound, itbeing formed with internal webs h to reduce the weight and havingattaching passages h molded in the webs. There is likely to becomparatively little material between the walls of the passages and theadjacent walls of the webs, so they rupture easily. Then, too, in-

inserting attaching fastenings in passages formed .during themanufacture of the heel, it is diflicult to'so locate the heel upon theheel-seat that the fastenings will enter the passages. In making by thepresent method a shoe having attached to it a molded plastic heel, it isonly necessary to furnish an inserting mold 28 in which are openings 32,34 and 36 located in accordance with the same design as theheel-passages. Then, by I employing fastenings N with the shanks l4correctly proportioned in diameter with respect to the passages theattachment to the outsole S" and the insole may be eifectedaccurately asto position and without breaking the. heel. The

shank-projections 23, if utilized, aid in the retention of the heelwithout materially increasing the rupturing stresses. It may bedesirable, if the molded material is especially frail, to use afastening with a shank I4 of a diameter not much greater than that ofthe passage which it is to .enter, and apply to either the shank-or thepassage before assembling, a solvent for the particular plastic of'which the heel is made. For a nitrocellulose compound, this may beacetone. Then, when the elements are forced together, the contactingsurfaces tend to adhere, the softened plastic surrounding andinterlocking with the projections 23. This renders the-attachmentsecure, even if the pressure exerted by the fastening-shanks upon theheel-material is light. 'A

similar advantage is gained in the use of glue in the attachmentof woodheels. The adhesive is applied to the cup of the heel after the passages60 have been formed. The adhesive naturally enters said passages andincreases the holding power of the fastenings. The retentive force ismarkedly greater if the shanks l4 have the projections 23.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is: r

1. The method of shoemaking which consists in driving a series offastenings from the outside into the margin of and interlocking saidfastenings with the assembled partsof tne heel-seat-end of a shoe,forming in a. shoe-bottorh-portion a serles of passages so located thatsaid passages and fastenings will register when the botto rtion is inassembling relation to the shoe, a forcing together the shoe andbottom-portion with the fastenings in the passages.

2. The method of shoemaking which consists in pressing together theheel-seat-end of a. shoe and a mold provided with an opening, insertinga fastening through the opening into the shoe, separating the shoe withits fastening from the mold, forming in a shoe-bottom-portion a passagecorresponding in location to the inserted fastening, and forcingtogether the shoe and bottom-portion with the fastening in the passage.

3. The method of shoemaking which consists in pressing together theheel-seat-end of a shoe and a mold provided with openings arranged inaccordance with a fastening-inserting design, inserting fasteningsthrough the openings into the shoe, separating the-shoe with itsfastenings from the mold, forming in a shoe-bottom-portion a series ofpassages each of less diameter than the fastenings and so located thatsaid passages and fastenings will register when the bottom-portion is inassembling relation to the heelseat, and forcing together the shoe andbottomportion with the fastenings in the passages.

4. The method of shoemaking which consists in inserting about the marginof the heel-seatend of a shoe a series of fastenings each having adivided end and an oppositely extending end, said divided end beingclinched with one prong extending outwardly toward the periphery of theheel-seat, forming in a shoe-bottom-portion a series of passages solocated that said passages and fastenings will register when thebottomportion is in assembling relation to the shoe, and forcingtogether the shoe and the bottom-portion with the oppositely extendingends'of the fastenings in the passages.

5. The method of attaching heels to shoes which consists in inserting inthe heel-seat of a shoe the divided end of a fastening clinchedoppositelyupon the insole and having an outwardly projecting end,forming in a heel a passage corresponding in location tovand of lessdiameter than the projecting fastening-end and opening through theheel-cup, and forcing together the shoe and heel with the projecting endof the fastening in the passage;

-6. The method of attaching heels to shoes which consists in insertingabout the margin of the heel-seat of a shoe the divided ends of a seriesof fastenings clinched oppositely upon the insole in predeterminedrelation to the periphery of the heel-seat, the ends of the fasteningsopposite the divided ends projecting outwardly, drillingin a heel aseries of passages so located that said passages and the projecting endsof the fastenings will register when the heel is in assembling relationto the heel-seat, and forcing together the shoe and heel with theprojecting ends of the fastenings in the passages.

7. The method of attaching heels to shoes which consists in pressingtogether the heel-seat of a shoe and a mold provided with openingsarranged in accordance with a fastening-inserting design, aligning withthe mold-openings fastenings positioned in predetermined angularrelations about their axes, driving the thus-positioned fasteningsthrough the mold-openings into the heel-seat and clinching them asdetermined by their positions and with ends projecting outwardly,drilling in a heel passages corresponding in location to themold-passages, and forcing together the shoe and heel with theprojecting ends of the fastenings in the passages.

8. The method of attaching heels to shoes by collar-nails which consistsin inserting a series of the nails about the-margin of the heel-seat ofa shoe with the heel-seat-material clamped between each nail-collar andone of the opposite projections from said collar, forming passages in aheel corresponding in location to the inserted nails, and forcingtogether the shoe and heel with the ends of the nails opposite those setin the heel-seat in the passages.

9. The method of attaching heels to shoes by collar-nails which consistsin inserting a series of the nails about the margin of the heel-seat ofa shoe with the heel-seat-material clamped between each nail-collar andone of the opposite projections from said collar, the other of saidopposite projections being provided with lateral projections, formingpassages in a heel corresponding in location to the inserted nails, andforcing together the shoe and heel with the ends of the nails having thelateral projections in the passages.

10. The method of attaching heels to shoes by collar-nails havingoppositely projecting ends and one end of each of which nails isbifurcated which consists in driving the nails with the collars seatedupon the outsole and the divided ends clinched oppositely upon theinsole, drilling passages in a heel corresponding inlocation to thedriven nails, and forcing together the shoe and heel with the ends orthe nails opposite the bifurcated portions in the passages.

11. The method of attaching to shoes bottomunits which consists insecuring together in a definite relation outsoles and heels to furnishthe bottom-units, driving a series of fastenings directly and fixedlyfrom the outside into the margin of the assembled portions of theheel-seatend of a shoe, forming through the outsole of an assembledbottom-unit into the heel a series of passages so located that saidpassages and fastenings will register when the bottom-unit is inassembling relation to the heel, andforcirig together the shoe andbottom-unit with the fastenings in the passages.

12. The method of attaching to shoes bottomunits formed of outsolesassembled with heels which consists in pressing together theheel-seatportion of a shoe and a mold provided with openings arranged inaccordance with a fasteninginserting design, inserting fasteningsthrough the openings into the shoe, separating the shoe with itsfastening from the mold, forming through the sole of an assembledbottom-unit into the heel passages corresponding in location to theinserted fastenings, and forcing together the shoe and bottom-unit withthe fastenings in the passages.

13'. The method of attaching bottom-units formed of outsoles assembledwith heels to shoes by collar-nails each having one of the oppositelyprojecting shank-portions divided which consists in inserting throughthe heel-seat of a shoe the divided ends of a plurality of the nails andclinching their ends upon the insole, drilling through the outsole ofthe bottom-unit into the heel passages corresponding in location to theinserted nails, and forcing together the shoe and bottom-unit with theshank-portions of the nails opposite the divided portions in thepassages.

14. The method of attaching heels molded of plastic material andcontaining attaching passages formed during molding 'which consists indriving from the outside into the heel-seat of a shoe fasteningsindependent of one another and arranged in positions determined by thedesign of the molded heel-passages, and forcing together the shoe andheel with the fastenings in the passages.

15. The method of attaching heels molded of plastic material andcontaining attaching passages formed during molding which consists inpressing together the heel-seat-portion of a shoe and a mold providedwith openings corresponding in location to those molded in a heel,inserting fastenings through the mold-openings into the shoe, andforcing together the shoe and heel with the fastenings in the moldedpassages. 1 16. The method of attaching heels molded of plastic materialand containing attaching passages formed during molding which consistsin inserting in the heel-seat of a shoe in accordance with the samedesign as the molded heel-passages the divided shanks of collar-nailsand clinching said shanks upon the insole, the shanks of the nailsopposite the divided shanks extending outwardly from the heel-seat andbeing provided with lateral projections, and forcing together the shoeand heel with the outer shanks in the heelpassages.

17. The method of attaching heels molded of plastic material andcontaining attaching passages formed during molding which consists ininserting in the heel-seat of a shoe in accordance with the same designas the molded heel-passages the divided shanks of collar-nails andclinching said shanks upon the insole, the shanks of the nails oppositethe divided shanks extending outwardly from the heel-seat and beingarranged to register with the heel-passages by which they are received,applying to one of the registering surfacesa solvent for the plastic,and forcing said surfaces together.

18. A shoe comprising an upper with its insole, and a bottom-portionattached to the upper by collar-nails having oppositely projectingshanks, one of the shanks of each nail being divided and clinchedoppositely upon the inner face of the insole and the other shank lyingwithin the bottom-portion.

19. A shoe comprising an upper with its insole and an attached outsole,and a heel attached to 55 the heel-seat oi the outsole by collar-nailshaving oppositely projecting shanks, one of the shanks of each nailbeing divided, it passing through the outsole and insole and beingclinched oppositely upon the inner face of said insole and the othershank lying within the heel.

20. A shoe comprising an upper with its insole and an attached outsole,and a heel attached to the heel-seat of the outsole by collar-nailshaving oppositely projecting shanks, one of the shanks of each nailbeing divided, it passing through the outsole and insole and beingclinched oppositely upon the inner face of said insole with the outerprong of the divided portion extending toward the nearest point in theperiphery of the heelseat and the other shank lying within the heel.

21. A shoe comprising an upper with its insole and an attached outsole,and a heel attached to the heel-seat of the outsole by collar-nailshaving oppositely projecting shanks, one of the shanks of each nailbeing divided, it passing through the outsole and insole and beingclinched oppositely upon the inner face of said insole and the othershank entering the heel and provided with lateral projections engagingsaid heel.

22. A shoe comprising an upper with its insole, and a preassembledoutsole-and-heel-unit attached to the insole by collar-nails havingshanks projecting oppositely from the collars, one of the shanks of eachnail being divided, it passing through the insole and being clinchedoppositely upon the inner face thereof and the other shank passingthrough the outsole and lying within the heel.

23,. A shoe comprising an upper and its insole and an attached outsole,and a heel attached to the heel-seat and consisting of plastic materialin which passages are molded, there being collar-nails having shanksextending oppositely from the collars, one of the shanks of each nailbeing divided, it passing through the outsole and insole and beingclinched oppositely upon the inner face of said insole and the othershank lying in the heel and provided with lateral projections surroundedby the plastic material.

24. A shoe comprising an upper and its insole and an attached outsole,and a heel attached to the heel-seat and consisting of plastic materialin, which passages are molded, there being collar-nails with theircollars lying spaced from one another about the margin of the heel-seatand between the outsole and the cup of the heel, the shank upon one sideof the collar of each nail passing through the outsole and insole andbeing clinched over the inner face of said insole and the opposite shanklying in one of the heel-passages.

FRANK A. EICH.

